The Last Parsnip

A Truly Unbelievable Dining Experience from Chef Bryce Chartwell


I've been pouring over some of my favorite recipes as I put together menu ideas for our restaurant in Seattle. This is one of our most popular dishes, particularly well received by Anthony Hopkins and any Welsh rugby union players.

Haggish, a distant cousin of its Scottish ancestor, first appeared in Wales during the late 18th century. Lighter on the pallet, and infused with a strong leek flavor, the dish was a firm favorite during the Lloyd George government. Dylan Thomas was commissioned to write an “ode to the Haggish” in 1925 – though it never gained popularity beyond Bangor. More recently haggish has appeared on the menu of several Welsh tapas bars in the Cardiff area.


  • 1 cleaned sheep or lamb's stomach bag
  • 3 lb. dry oatmeal
  • 1 lb chopped lard
  • 1 lb goose liver, boiled and minced
  • 1 pint (2 cups) vegetable stock
  • “The heart and lights of the sheep”, boiled and minced
  • 1 large chopped onion
  • 3 large chopped leeks
  • 2 tbsp Welsh seasoning


  • Pan-fry oatmeal, tossing gently until lightly crisped.
  • Mix all remaining ingredients together (except “the hearts and lights of the sheep”, lard and stomach bag)
  • Pour in stock, mix ingredients and spoon into stomach bag.
  • Re-boil “the hearts and lights” of the sheep – until they remain firm to the touch
  • Mix in to stomach bag, and sew up securely.
  • Lower the haggish into a large pot of boiling water, and simmer for 7-8 hours.

Serves 16 Welsh people.

Inner Cooking Notes:
If you are not sufficiently skilled to sew up the haggish then you can use a staple gun instead. Just make sure your guests are informed before consuming the dish.

Only consume “hearts and lights” that have been prepared by a skilled butcher. If you are in any doubt as to their authenticity we suggest substituting a mild Italian sausage.

Key Facts:
Preparation time: 2 hours
Cooking time: 8 hours